2021 IECC Climate Zone 7 Building Assembly: Unvented Roof, 2x6 Wall, Vented Crawl Space

Drawing 7.4: IECC CZ 7: Unvented Roof, 2x6 Wall, Vented Crawl Space

• This unvented roof assembly should not be used where the ground snow load is greater than 50 lb/ft2 (293 kg/m2). Vented roofs should be used instead to control ice damming.
• A low-permeance roofing underlayment (less than 1 perm) is recommended for this roof type in this climate to reduce water diffusion through the underlayment to the sheathing.

• There is no interior vapor barrier at the ceiling or the wall – there is a Class III vapor “retarder” (semi-permeable latex paint). The reason that there is no interior vapor barrier is to permit drying to the interior.
• The rigid foam insulation at the roof deck is required to control condensation. The rigid foam R-value required depends on the R-value of the cavity insulation. In Climate Zone 7, the R-value of the rigid foam should be at least R-30 per Table 806.5 of the 2021 IRC, and in Climate Zone 8 the R-value of the rigid foam should be at least R-35. DOE-funded research has shown that the R-value of the rigid foam should be at least 60% of the total R-value in Climate Zone 7 and 70% of the total R-value in Climate Zone 8. These are more conservative than the code requirements. For Climate Zone 7, with a cavity insulation value of R-25, the rigid foam should be at least R-37.5 (37.5 / (25+37.5) = 60%). In Climate Zone 8, with a cavity insulation value of R-19, the rigid foam should be at least R-45 (45 / (19+45) = 70%). Both of these assemblies also meet energy code (R-60 minimum). However, if a higher amount of cavity insulation were to be used (to fill the rafter cavity, for instance), then a higher R-value rigid foam would need to be used to control vapor. Regardless of which type of cavity insulation is used, there must not be a gap between the cavity insulation and the sheathing/rigid foam above it, per Section 806.5 of 2021 IRC.
• Note that this assembly does not have an attic (vented or unvented). If the assembly did have an attic space, Section R402.2.1 of the 2021 IECC may apply, depending on the interpretation of the local code official. If so, R-49 could be used over the attic rather than R-60 as long as the R-49 insulation extended over the full width of the exterior wall top plate.
• The wall is framed with 2x6 24” o.c. advanced framing as it uses less board footage (volume of wood framing) than standard 2x4 16” o.c. framing and has therefore been shown to be less expensive in material cost. It has also been proven to be less expensive in labor (25% fewer framing members) and is faster to assemble. This must be balanced with the difference in insulation costs for the two framing approaches.
• The R-15 or R-20 rigid insulation on the exterior of the wall framing is required by 2021 IRC Table 702.7(3) to control condensation within the framing cavities. There is no interior vapor barrier on the interior surface of the wall – there is a vapor “retarder” (Class III vapor retarder – semi-permeable latex paint). The reason that there is no interior vapor barrier is to permit drying to the interior. 
• For Climate Zone 8, this assembly does not require any cavity insulation per 2021 IECC due to the R-20 continuous rigid foam. However, filling the cavity may be needed or preferred for fire protection, acoustics, and energy efficiency.
• An alternative to this wall assembly that meets both thermal and vapor control code requirements is to use an R-13 2x4 wall with R-10 (climate zone 7) or R-12.5 (climate zone 8) rigid foam on the outside.
• The rigid foam on the exterior of the wall allows construction without using structural sheathing: alternative methods of wall bracing are used instead, and the rigid foam provides a backstop for the cavity insulation as well as some structural support to the siding. Many contractors have found this to be a more economical approach.
• The plastic L-bracket at the bottom of the wall’s exterior rigid insulation should be perforated to facilitate drainage.
• The R-10 rigid insulation on the underside of the floor framing is also a vapor barrier that prevents moisture from the vented crawlspace from damaging the floor framing and floor finishes. The protection board is necessary to prevent rodents and other animals from damaging the assembly.

Window Detail 5A - Framed Wall with Thick Rigid Insulation and Siding (Wood, Fiber Cement, Aluminum or Vinyl)

• Note: Always follow the window manufacturer’s installation guidance. Not following manufacturer guidance may void the warranty.
• This is a “drained wall”. The exterior face of the rigid insulation is carefully taped at all seams, allowing it to act as the water control layer. Drainage occurs between the siding and the exterior face of the rigid insulation. A drainage gap is provided by furring installed vertically over the exterior face of the rigid insulation at stud locations.
• The window openings are drained to the exterior face of the rigid foam since it is acting as the water control layer.
• The rough opening at the windowsill is sloped and flashed to the rigid foam with a formable flashing.
• The upper portion of the head trim flashing goes under the furring and is taped directly to the rigid foam with flashing tape. The furring is “cut through” by the head trim flashing, so that the furring below the flashing (behind the head trim) is separate from the furring above the flashing (behind the siding). During construction the head trim is installed first on short pieces of furring. It is flashed directly to the rigid foam as described above. The rest of the furring is installed with the siding.
• With thick rigid foam installed on the exterior, providing nailing surfaces for trim and siding can be a challenge. Furring strips are one approach to accomplish this. Some form of structural wood may be needed around the windows to accommodate trim. There are many ways to accomplish this. In the assembly shown, wide lumber is used to create the rough opening, allowing nail-able wood to extend to the exterior surface of the rigid foam but also creating a thermal bridge.
• A formable membrane connects the rigid foam to the wood frame. It should extend inwards at least past the point where the interior air seal is located around all sides of the window frame. This creates water-resistant surfaces inside the cavity between the window flanges and the interior air seal, in case any water gets behind the flanges. The head and jamb window flanges are flashed to the rigid foam using a self-adhered flashing membrane or flashing tape. The sill window flange is not flashed, to allow any water that may get behind the flanges to escape.
• This assembly relies heavily on the use of proper tapes, flashings, and membranes that will adhere securely and durably to the rigid foam. Products should only be used if they have been well-established to be appropriate for this application.
• Note the gap between the head trim and the top of the window assembly frame. This gap allows water to drain and allows the bottom of the trim to dry out more easily. If installed without this gap, capillary action can draw water into the tight space between the head trim and the window assembly frame. Note also the gap between the siding and the head trim flashing, which serves the same purposes.
• Consider installing rigid head flashing (rigid head flashing is not shown in the schematic). Rigid head flashing is similar to the head trim flashing shown in the schematic, but it goes over the top of the window frame instead of over the head trim. This is required by some manufacturers. It should be installed against the head nailing flange and over the top of the window frame. The vertical and horizontal portion of the flashing should be sealed directly to the window frame and flange with sealant. The red flashing membrane strip shown overlapping the head nailing flange in the schematic would now overlap the rigid head flashing. Use rigid head flashing with a drip edge to guide water away from the window assembly.
• Backer rod for the interior air sealant should be installed after the window is installed, leveled, and shimmed. Use the correct size backer rod.