Showing results 1 - 146 of 146
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A liquid-applied water barrier covers the walls, serving as a drainage plane, air and vapor barrier, and secondary window flashing beneath the rigid foam that will be installed next.
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A paint-on flashing is used around the windows and doors for seamless water protection.
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A piece of siding is used as sill extension and to provide slope in the opening for the window, which is deeper because exterior rigid foam has been added
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Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and housewrap
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Before installing the windows, the window rough openings are sealed with a liquid-applied flashing that provides a seamless moisture and air barrier to protect the wall from water intrusion.
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Clean taping areas and install 3" tape on vertical joint of upper insulation overlapping the horizontal joint
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Continuous L-metal flashing integrated with underlayment at roof-wall intersections
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Duct/pipe penetration with metal cap flashing and wood blocking for trim attachment
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition retrofitted with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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Existing wall-to-lower roof with attic transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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Flashing at bottom of exterior walls with weep holes included for masonry veneer and weep screed for stucco cladding systems, or equivalent drainage system
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Flashing at bottom of exterior walls with weep holes included for masonry veneer and weep screed for stucco cladding systems, or equivalent drainage system
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Flashing at bottom of exterior walls with weep holes included for masonry veneer and weep screed for stucco cladding systems, or equivalent drainage system
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Furring strips provide drainage gap behind lap siding; screen is added at bottom and top to prevent entry of insects and wildfire embers.
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Heavy metal flashing protects the deck timbers and separates them from the wall at the wall-deck connection which is vulnerable to both ember entrapment and water damage.
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Improper flashing can allow rain water into walls, causing significant damage
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Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter; attach to roof deck but not sidewall
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Metal cap flashing is installed over the roof parapet and extends down over the roofing membrane
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Place first shingle and next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Plan view of duct or pipe penetration through exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Plan view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Proper flashing around windows is especially important when the rigid foam serves as the drainage plane in the wall
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Right - A second layer of flashing tape is applied over the EPDM gasket and first layer of tape at sides and top around the duct; 14 of 14.
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Right - After installing the EPDM gasket around the HRV duct, first the lower edge, then the sides of the gasket are taped; 11 of 14.
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Right - After installing the EPDM gasket around the HRV duct, first the lower edge, then the sides, then the top of the gasket are taped; 12 of 14.
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Right - After installing the EPDM gasket around the HRV duct, the lower edge of the gasket is taped first before taping the other edges of the gasket; 10 of 14.
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Right - Corners of window are protected with draining house wrap that laps onto the sides of the window trim, paint-on flashing at window trim corners, and self-adhered flashing to reinforce corners.
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Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
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Right - House wrap is lapped back over first layer of flashing tape, then a second layer of flashing tape is applied to the sides around the duct; 13 of 14.
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Right - Permeable rigid mineral wool insulation and appropriate water-management flashing details are integrated with new rigid foam siding to keep water away from the sill beam above the foundation wall
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Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
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Right - Tape flashing keeps moisture out around and below the window; extra tape reinforces the corners to prevent tearing of the house wrap and to keep water out of this critical juncture.
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Right - The pipe penetration is properly flashed and furring strips are installed on each side in preparation for installing cladding
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Right - The water and air control layers are properly integrated around the hose bib
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Right - This duct penetration is properly flashed and integrated with the taped, foil-faced foam sheathing layer, which serves as the air and water barrier
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Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
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Right – A flexible flashing product is installed around the corners of the window sill before installing the windows.
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Right – A metal flashing was installed behind the first row of siding above the windows to guide water over the trim.
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Right – The base of the wall is water proofed and the seam between the base of the wall and the sidewalk is air sealed.
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Right – The flashing is properly installed to create a complete drainage system with continuous rigid insulation sheathing/siding
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Right – The water-resistant barrier is layered over the step flashing to provide a complete drainage system
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Right – There is flashing installed along the top of the window and the water-resistant barrier is layered over to create a complete drainage system
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Right – There is flashing installed at the bottom of the wall to create a satisfactory drainage system
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Right – Two-thirds of acrylic tape is offset above the joint and over and above the fasteners
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Right – two-thirds of the blue butyl flashing tape is above the sheathing seam; the top edge of the butyl flashing tape is covered with clear sheathing tape that is also offset so two-thirds is above the top edge of the butyl flashing.
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Right – Windows are installed and flashed in the factory for these modular homes.
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Right: Brick veneer is flashed correctly with weep holes and a fine mesh screen is installed to prevent pest entry.
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Rigid foam insulation can serve as the drainage plane when all seams are taped. Furring strips provide an air gap behind the cladding.
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Section view of duct or pipe penetration through exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Section view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 3. Place the first shingle and the next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
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Step and kick-out flashing at all roof-wall intersections extending ≥ 4 in. on wall surface above roof deck and integrated with drainage plane above
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Strips of roofing membrane are used to flash around a skylight on a flat roof retrofit
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Tape the joint between the top insulation sheet and the Z-flashing with 2" wide tape to improve air tightness
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The “down” and “out” approach to flashing – metal flashing directs water down and out of building assemblies
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The blocking is completely flashed with roofing membrane before the PV rack hardware is attached on a flat roof
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The fluid-applied asphalt coating provides a weather-resistant, moisture resistant layer around the house, serving as a continuous drainage plane and flashing for window and door openings.
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The retrofitted flat roof has PV panels and walking mats installed over the roofing membrane
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The sheathing has rotted because there was not a sufficient drainage gap behind the stucco cladding
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The tape window flashing here is integrated with the roller-applied weather-resistant barrier.
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The water-resistant barrier, weep screed, and stucco lathe are not properly layered
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The water-resistant barrier, weep screed, and stucco lathe are properly layered and will create a complete drainage system
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The weep holes are spaced at the correct distance to provide a complete drainage system
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The windows in this building are connected to the fully adhered water and air control layer using fluid-applied flashing
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This drawing shows key head details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key head details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key head details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This drawing shows key head details for a window installation using a self-adhered membrane tape flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key head details for an “outie” window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This drawing shows key jamb details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key jamb details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key jamb details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This drawing shows key jamb details for a window installation using a self-adhered membrane tape flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key jamb details for an “outie” window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This drawing shows key sill details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key sill details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key sill details for a window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This drawing shows key sill details for a window installation using a self-adhered membrane tape flashing on a wall with a mechanically attached water and air control layer
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This drawing shows key sill details for an “outie” window installation using a fluid-applied flashing on a wall with a fluid-applied water and air control layer and continuous insulation
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This exterior wall retrofit permits drying to the exterior of a sill plate installed on an untreated flat foundation wall
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This farmhouse was retrofit by removing the existing siding and adding taped insulated sheathing and battens before installing new siding
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This house design in the Hot-Humid climate uses a slab foundation, masonry walls, and an Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) cladding.
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Weep holes: Rope inserted in the head joist between bricks will allow water to weep out of the base of the wall assembly
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Windows are installed as “outies” in this wall assembly using a self-adhered membrane water and air control layer with continuous exterior insulation
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Wrong - House wrap was poorly installed, seams were not taped, and flashing tape was not installed around windows.
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Wrong - House wrap and flashing tape are poorly installed allowing water to get into the gaps behind flashing tape.
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Wrong - House wrap tape is not fully adhered at seam and flashing tape is missing from window head, jamb, and corner above window.
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Wrong - Step flashing is missing where the gable meets roof and the valley flashing is incorrectly on top of rather than under shingles.
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Wrong - Stucco has rotted and cracked above a window because of water damage due to lack of proper flashing and drainage.
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Wrong - The gutter is missing kick-out flashing causing wall and window damage beneath it.
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Wrong - The siding on the chimney is rotten because there is no metal step flashing at the base of the chimney.
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Wrong - There is no step flashing along the base of the gable and the right window is missing sill trim.
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Wrong - Water has gotten behind the paint, possibly due to lack of window flashing, leading to blistering.
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Wrong - Window is missing pan flashing under sill and tape flashing at jamb end sill.
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Wrong - Wiring holes are not sealed and possible missing flashing around windows is allowing water into walls and causing paint to peel.
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Wrong – The corners are not properly flashed, leaving a vulnerable area in the drainage system
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Wrong – the water-resistant barrier is layered underneath the step flashing, which could allow water to get behind the step flashing and into the wall.
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Wrong – There is no flashing installed at the bottom of the exterior walls to create a drainage system
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Wrong – There is no flashing installed at the bottom of the exterior walls to create a drainage system
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