Showing results 1 - 50 of 68
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Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and housewrap
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Continuous L-metal flashing integrated with underlayment at roof-wall intersections
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition retrofitted with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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Existing wall-to-lower roof with attic transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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High winds pulled the asphalt shingles and sheathing panels off this coastal home, although storm shutters protected the windows
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Ice dams form when warmth from the attic causes roof snow to melt and flow to roof eaves where it refreezes at the colder overhang and forms a buildup of ice causing more snowmelt to puddle where it can wick back through shingles and leak into the attic
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Improper flashing can allow rain water into walls, causing significant damage
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Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter; attach to roof deck but not sidewall
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Place first shingle and next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Provide flashing and sealing integrated with the air and water control layers for vents and other roof penetrations
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Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
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Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
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Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
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Right – House without gutters has waterproof liner, drain tile, and gravel bed extending more than 5 feet from foundation
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Right – If drip edge flashing is installed over fully adhered roof membrane at eaves, use flashing cement to seal the upper edge of the flashing
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Right – Install asphalt shingles over a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement
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Right – Rain barrel installed with an overflow spout terminating at least 5 feet from foundation
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Right – Start asphalt shingle installation with a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement
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Right – The downspout pipe is far enough away from the foundation to prevent moisture problems
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Right – The downspout terminates into a catchment system that moves water away from the foundation of the house
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Right – The ridge flashing is secured with two rows of fasteners on each side of the ridge line
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Right – The water-resistant barrier is layered over the step flashing to provide a complete drainage system
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Right – There is a properly installed and layered self-sealing bituminous membrane at the roof penetration
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Right – There is a self-sealing bituminous membrane installed at the valley of the roof prior to the roof felt
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Right – This low-slope flat roof assembly has continuity of both the air and water barriers
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Right – This low-slope roof and parapet assembly has continuity of both the air and water barriers
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Right – Under metal roofing, sheathing is protected by metal edging over a fully adhered membrane and a slip sheet of loose laid building paper
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation