Showing results 101 - 192 of 192
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Right – R-23 of blown fiberglass fills the walls and unvented vaulted attic cavities of this marine-climate home while an additional R-20 (4-inches) of graphite-enhanced expanded polystyrene is installed above the roof sheathing.
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Right – Retrofit Specification for installing roof sheathing an 18-inch gable end overhang
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Right – Ripped OSB provides furring strips for a ventilation gap behind the wood siding.
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Right – Some tape is pressure sensitive; a roller is used to apply even pressure to ensure full adhesion.
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Right – Start asphalt shingle installation with a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement
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Right – Structural insulated sheathing can provide racking strength (lateral load resistance), and serve as an air barrier and thermal barrier if installed according to manufacturer’s specifications with taped, sealed seams
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Right – Taping the roof sheathing seams can greatly decrease the likelihood of water infiltration into a home in the event of a hurricane.
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Right – The coated OSB sheathing can take the place of house wrap to serve as the weather-resistant barrier because it is sealed at the seams with a paint-on flashing.
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Right – The seams are taped on the coated OSB sheathing of this home to provide a complete air barrier.
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Right – This coated OSB sheathing product is available with an integrated insulation layer.
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Right – This foil-faced foam sheathing has taped seams and proper flashing details so it can serve as a drainage plane.
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Right – Under metal roofing, sheathing is protected by metal edging over a fully adhered membrane and a slip sheet of loose laid building paper
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Right – Wood-to-sheathing joints are caulked so the sheathing can provide an air barrier for the home.
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Right- The rigid foam sheathing is taped at all seams before installing the metal lathe for stucco cladding.
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Right-Wall-insulating sheathing is extended up to roof rafters and sealed around the framing with spray foam
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Right: All joints in the rigid foam are taped to keep stucco out of joints for even drying. Mesh tape (shown here) is used with expanded polystyrene (EPS); acrylic sheathing tape or self-adhered membrane is used with XPS
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Rigid foam insulated sheathing placed exterior to house wrap, interior to house wrap, or take the place of the house wrap
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Rigid foam serves as the sheathing on these 2x6 24-inch on center walls; plywood is used only at the corners for wind bracing.
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Rigid mineral wool insulation is covered with ¼-inch wood battens which provides a air and drainage gap under the cedar and fiber cement siding.
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Seal the roof deck as follows: Sweep roof decking, tape seams, and cover underlayment or roofing felt as shown.
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Sheathing is removed from a flat roof to retrofit with air sealing, insulation, and water control layers
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Sleepers (tapered wood furring strips) are installed over the existing board sheathing to slope the new sheathing toward the drain in this flat roof retrofit
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Sloped roof with cavity spray foam insulation sprayed on underside of roof deck and covered with sprayed-on thermal or ignition barrier coating.
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Sloped roof with cavity spray foam insulation, strapping, and gypsum board thermal barrier
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Spray foam adhesive provides an extra water resistant layer to the joints and seams on the inside of attics.
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Staggering sheathing seams makes it harder for moisture to infiltrate the wall to the air gap, where furring strips will allow permeating moisture to drain if needed.
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Step 1. Remove the existing wall cladding to prepare to retrofit an exterior wall.
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Step 2. Install a continuous air and water control layer over the existing wall sheathing.
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Step 4. Install insulating sheathing and vertical furring strips on the retrofitted exterior wall; seal around pipe or duct with urethane sealant.
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Step 5. Install sheathing tape flashing over the duct or pipe and wood blocking on either side for later attachment of trim.
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Step 6. Install vent hood trim block, metal cap flashing; seal top edge of flashing with sheathing tape.
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Step 8. Attach the new cladding to the furring strips over the rigid foam for the exterior wall retrofit.
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Strengthen an existing roof by applying two-part spray-applied polyurethane foam adhesive to all sheathing and framing joints from the underside of the roof
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Stucco is installed over rigid insulation, which is installed over a drainage plane consisting of a drainage gap and building wrap layer over the sheathing
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Taped seams on the coated roof sheathing improve this home’s resistance to damage from high winds.
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The builder installed 1.5 inches of soy-based spray foam on the outside of the walls over the OSB sheathing, then kept a ¾ inch gap between the foam and the brick veneer siding to allow moisture vapor from the bricks to dissipate.
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The builder installed a rain screen product that provides an air gap and drainage plane between the coated OSB sheathing and the cladding; the fabric layer folded over the bottom edge forms an insect screen.
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The existing 2x8 roof rafters were topped with OSB; two layers of 2-inch rigid foam; plywood; ice and water shield at rakes, eaves, and valleys; underlayment; and fiberglass shingles, plus 6 inches of open-cell foam under the decking.
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The existing sheathing boards are removed near the perimeter of the flat roof and pressure-treated plywood is installed at the vertical face of the parapet
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The exterior of the home is wrapped in a continuous layer of rigid foam with all seams taped to provide a thermal, air, and moisture barrier and serve as a drainage plane, eliminating the need for house wrap.
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The exterior walls of this home consist of two wall cavities: a 2x6 wall with plywood sheathing plus 8-inch I-joists sheathed with engineered wood; both cavities are dense-packed with cellulose for R-60 total.
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The flush cut method for seismic retrofit bracing of a cripple wall allows the plywood sheathing to be attached directly to both the cripple studs and the notched section of the mudsill
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The home is sheathed with rigid foam insulation and all seams and holes are taped to provide a continuous air barrier.
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The metal screening keeps insects out of the black mesh plastic fabric which provides a ventilation gap behind the home’s siding, which includes the ship-lapped cypress shown here.
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The OSB sheathing is coated and taped at the seams to provide a weather-resistant barrier that can take the place of house wrap.
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The retrofitted flat roof has PV panels and walking mats installed over the roofing membrane
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The reverse block method for seismic retrofit bracing of a cripple wall uses a 2x4 attached to the sill plate to provide a means to attach the plywood cripple wall sheathing to the sill plate
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The tape is applied with even pressure to ensure the seams in the rigid foam sheathing are air sealed on this manufactured home.
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The walls of this mixed-humid location home are constructed with moisture-resistant steel-framed expanded polystyrene R-34 wall panels that are designed to withstand winds up to 200 mph and level D seismic forces.
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The wood blocking for future PV panel installation extends above the surface of the top layer of polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation installed as part of a flat roof retrofit
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These factory-built walls consist of 9.5-inch I-studs sheathed with coated OSB, faced with OSB, and dense-packed with cellulose; a second interior surface of drywall is added to provide a 1.5-inch cavity for electrical wiring.
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This farmhouse was retrofit by removing the existing siding and adding taped insulated sheathing and battens before installing new siding
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This home is covered with coated sheathing. Wall portions that will be covered with stone have a dimple plastic moisture barrier and metal lathe that is being covered with plaster.
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This plastic mesh material creates an air space behind the siding and provides a route for water to run out of the wall in case of leaks.
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This roof is hurricane proofed with a coated insulated OSB deck sheathing that is caulked and taped at all seams with a water-resistant tape, then fully covered with a peel-and-stick membrane, and asphalt shingles.
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To reduce the risk of condensation on the interior of the roof sheathing in cold weather, the ratio of exterior (above-deck) insulation must be increased as a percent of total attic insulation as outside temperature decreases
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Two layers of XPS are installed with staggered seams over a liquid-applied membrane on the structural sheathing
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Two types of paint-on flashing (green and red) are installed on the walls and around the windows, over the coated sheathing which is taped at the seams.
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Unvented roof assembly at eave retrofitted with rigid foam, spray foam, and taped top edge of existing house wrap or building paper
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Unvented roof assembly at rake retrofitted with a filler piece and taped top edge of existing house wrap or building paper to seal the top of wall-to-roof transition
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Upper-floor tie to lower floor for two-story building. Floor tie anchor and nailed wall sheathing.
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Use flashing tape to seal around any pipes or vents that penetrate through the foam
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When condensation forms on the interior side of wall sheathing and is not able to dry out, it can lead to mold growth and rotting of wall sheathing and framing
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When installing fasteners in roof sheathing, common mistakes include using the wrong size fasteners, missing the framing members, overdriving nails, and using too many or too few fasteners.
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Wind path and uplift force for a gabled roof, a hip roof, and a pyramidal (another variant of a hip) roof design
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With the nailed block method, wood blocks are attached to the sill plate and the cripple wall plywood is attached to the block to provide shear strength for correctly bracing a cripple wall in a seismic retrofit
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Wrong - Lack of a weather-resistant barrier allowed water to get behind the siding and rot the framing in this corner rim joist area.
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Wrong - Roof deck sheathing nails missed the trusses, potentially weakening the roof in high winds.
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Wrong – A visible gap in the insulated sheathing introduces unwanted outside air, creating a thermal bypass and encouraging convective air flow
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Wrong – Either this tape was not pressed down firmly or the surface was wet or dirty so the tape is not sticking properly even during construction.
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Wrong – If the insulated sheathing will serve as an air barrier and drainage plane, any cuts and seams must be taped or sealed.
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Wrong – The flashing of the roof-wall juncture was installed above the roof shingles instead of below the roof shingles; also no kickout flashing was installed.
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Wrong – When insulated sheathing is installed correctly, you should not see daylight. Nail holes were also left unplugged.
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Z flashing is installed behind the rigid foam and metal lathe that goes behind the stucco siding to protect the transition between the wall sheathing and the exterior foundation insulation.