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Retrofit an existing roof by installing rigid foam, new moisture and air control layers, new sheathing, and new cladding plus cavity insulation in the roof rafters to create an unvented attic
Right - A continuous load path connects the roof and wall framing to the foundation.
Right - A lattice of 1X4 furring strips provides a ventilation gap between the decking and metal roofing for this shed roof.
Right - An unvented attic with no soffit vents, borate-treated fascia board, metal drip edge, and concrete block construction on this south Florida home help make it resistant to hurricanes, pests, and wind-born wildfire embers.
Right - Correct angle for installing an engineered structural screw to secure a rafter to a wall for hurricane resistance.
Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
Right - Here, air control is established by taping the seams of the plywood panel sheathing. The roof sheathing is also trimmed flush with the wall sheathing to allow a simple and airtight connection between the roof and wall assemblies
Right - In hot climates, paint flat roofs light colors to reflect solar heat gain.
Right - Installation steps for the L-bent strap method of bracing a gable end wall
Right - Leaf guards allow rainwater into the gutter but keep combustible debris out, increasing the home's resistance to wildfires.
Right - Lookout or outrigger framing for a gable overhang provides two points at each outrigger to add metal connectors to strengthen the overhang against wind uplift.
Right - Metal drip edge on this south Florida CMU home protects the top of the fascia and edge of the roof deck from water, wind-blown rain and embers, and insects.
Right - Open-cell polyurethane spray foam to R-28 on underside of roof turns new attic into conditioned space for HVAC.
Right - Pieces of metal flashing are installed under each tile course along the valley centerline to prevent debris accumulation between and below concrete roof tiles.
Right - Raised-heel roof trusses allow more room at the eaves for attic insulation.
Right - Raised-heel trusses increase the roof height above the eaves allowing more space for insulation above exterior wall top plates; exterior wall sheathing extends up to keep wind from soffit vents from disrupting insulation.
Right - Roofs with simple geometries are less susceptible to ignition from wind-borne embers getting lodged on the roof in a wildfire.
Right - Solar photovoltaic panels are installed on the highest parts of the roof to avoid being shaded by other parts of the house.
Right - Spray foam insulation has been sprayed onto the underside of the sloped roof and the gable end wall to provide a sealed, insulated attic for housing the HVAC ducts
Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
Right - The air control membrane installed over the roof sheathing is continuous. It connects to the air control of the wall around the entire perimeter without interruption. The roof overhangs have been cut off to make this connection continuous
Right - The garage roof is correctly oriented for the home’s solar shingle system.
Right - The simple rectangular design of this home provides a large expanse of roof for solar panels.
Right - The wall framing is connected to roof framing with metal ties for hurricane-resistant construction.
Right - These raised heel roof trusses provide 16 inches of space over the outer walls for full insulation coverage at the attic perimeter.
Right - These roof insulation panels are installed in multiple layers with joints offset both vertically and horizontally. The plywood nail base fastened to the roof framing holds the insulation layers together snuggly thus minimizing gaps
Right - This concrete roof is properly attached and reinforced to withstand hurricane winds.
Right - This roof has a low gable and is secured to the wall framing to resist wind uplift.
Right - This shed roof is constructed with 1X4 furring strips installed over the decking and underlayment for ventilation beneath the metal roofing.
Right - This tiny house has a mono-sloped shed roof angled toward the sun to provide maximum space for solar panels.
Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
Right – A double bead of sealant seals the seams between the SIP panel and spline.
Right – A fully adhered roof membrane provides thorough water and wind protection in this mountain top location.
Right – A protective membrane has been installed in the valleys and at the eaves of this roof before installing underlayment.
Right – A radon pipe provides a path for radon to vent to the roof rather than seeping into the home.
Right – Air barrier and penetrations sealed between porch attic and conditioned space
Right – All penetrations through the roof decking are sealed with paint-on flashing.
Right – An existing gable wall is reinforced with horizontal braces that butt up to the gable end wall and connect back to multiple trusses; retrofit studs make full contact with the wall and the compression blocks and are connected to the horizontal brac
Right – Angled racks are used for the photovoltaic panel installation on this flat roof.
Right – Battens are installed above the cork insulation to provide a ventilating layer between the insulation and the roof sheathing and cladding.
Right – Battens were installed above the cork insulation to provide a ventilating layer between the insulation and the roof sheathing on this “hot roof” design.