Showing results 101 - 150 of 253
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Recommended tile and mortar placement for extruded concrete flat tile roofing system
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Right - A continuous load path connects the roof and wall framing to the foundation.
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Right - An unvented attic with no soffit vents, borate-treated fascia board, metal drip edge, and concrete block construction on this south Florida home help make it resistant to hurricanes, pests, and wind-born wildfire embers.
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Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
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Right - In hot climates, paint flat roofs light colors to reflect solar heat gain.
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Right - Leaf guards allow rainwater into the gutter but keep combustible debris out, increasing the home's resistance to wildfires.
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Right - Metal drip edge on this south Florida CMU home protects the top of the fascia and edge of the roof deck from water, wind-blown rain and embers, and insects.
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Right - Open-cell polyurethane spray foam to R-28 on underside of roof turns new attic into conditioned space for HVAC.
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Right - Pieces of metal flashing are installed under each tile course along the valley centerline to prevent debris accumulation between and below concrete roof tiles.
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Right - Spray foam insulation has been sprayed onto the underside of the sloped roof and the gable end wall to provide a sealed, insulated attic for housing the HVAC ducts
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Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
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Right - The wall framing is connected to roof framing with metal ties for hurricane-resistant construction.
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Right - These raised heel roof trusses provide 16 inches of space over the outer walls for full insulation coverage at the attic perimeter.
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Right - This concrete roof is properly attached and reinforced to withstand hurricane winds.
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Right - This roof has a low gable and is secured to the wall framing to resist wind uplift.
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Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
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Right – All penetrations through the roof decking are sealed with paint-on flashing.
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Right – Closed-cell polyurethane foam is sprayed on the underside of the roof deck to provide structural connections and seal seams in the sheathing to increase wind resistance
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Right – Examples of wall stud to sill plate and foundation and wall rod connectors and brackets.
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Right – Examples of wall stud to top plate and stud to rim joist framing connectors and brackets.
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Right – Flashing is installed around chimney, skylight, vents, dormers, in valleys and at eaves
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Right – House without gutters has waterproof liner, drain tile, and gravel bed extending more than 5 feet from foundation
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Right – If drip edge flashing is installed over fully adhered roof membrane at eaves, use flashing cement to seal the upper edge of the flashing
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Right – In wildfire prone areas, using a flat soffit with venting on the fascia instead of an angled soffit with down-facing venting reduces the risk of catching rising embers.
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Right – Install asphalt shingles over a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement
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Right – Rain barrel installed with an overflow spout terminating at least 5 feet from foundation
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Right – Retrofit Specification for installing roof sheathing an 18-inch gable end overhang
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Right – Roof underlayment is fully adhered and roof deck seams are sealed so roof is resistant to high-wind events
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Right – Roof underlayment is fully adhered and roof deck seams are sealed so roof is resistant to high-wind events
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Right – Sheathing extends to rafters adding strength to soffit, baffles keep attic insulation from vent to maintain air flow
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Right – Start asphalt shingle installation with a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement