Showing results 1 - 55 of 55
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Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and housewrap
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Chimneys and roof valleys are flashed with metal flashing that is integrated with roof shingles.
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Continuous L-metal flashing integrated with underlayment at roof-wall intersections
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition retrofitted with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding
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Existing wall-to-lower roof transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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Existing wall-to-lower roof with attic transition with a new strip of fully adhered air control transition membrane, new step flashing, new roof underlayment, and new cladding – view from eave
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Improper flashing can allow rain water into walls, causing significant damage
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Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter; attach to roof deck but not sidewall
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Integrate pre-formed vent pipe flashing, shingle-fashion, with roofing underlayment and shingles
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Kickout diverter flashing keeps bulk water from the roof from overflowing the gutter and continuously wetting the siding material.
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Metal cap flashing is installed over the roof parapet and extends down over the roofing membrane
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Missing step flashing and kickout flashing caused rotting of wall and roof sheathing, fascia, framing, and plywood cover below the eave at this complicated roof juncture.
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Place first shingle and next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
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Right - Pieces of metal flashing are installed under each tile course along the valley centerline to prevent debris accumulation between and below concrete roof tiles.
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Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
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Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
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Right – All penetrations through the roof decking are sealed with paint-on flashing.
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Right – Flashing is installed around chimney, skylight, vents, dormers, in valleys and at eaves
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Right – The water-resistant barrier is layered over the step flashing to provide a complete drainage system
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Spray foam adhesive provides an extra water resistant layer to the joints and seams on the inside of attics.
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 3. Place the first shingle and the next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
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Step and kick-out flashing at all roof-wall intersections extending ≥ 4 in. on wall surface above roof deck and integrated with drainage plane above
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Strips of roofing membrane are used to flash around a skylight on a flat roof retrofit
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The blocking is completely flashed with roofing membrane before the PV rack hardware is attached on a flat roof
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The retrofitted flat roof has PV panels and walking mats installed over the roofing membrane
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This house design in the Hot-Humid climate uses a slab foundation, masonry walls, and an Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) cladding.
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Wrong - House wrap was not properly cut and adhered where the roof meets the wall so water is likely to get behind the house wrap.
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Wrong - House wrap was poorly cut at wall interface and not taped leaving wood exposed and vulnerable to water entry.
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Wrong - Roof is missing metal drip edge to cover the edge of OSB roof decking, roof underlayment should be trimmed back, and asphalt shingles are poorly installed.
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Wrong - Roof-wall juncture lacks metal flashing and is poorly designed, thus encouraging water entry.
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Wrong - Step flashing is missing where the gable meets roof and the valley flashing is incorrectly on top of rather than under shingles.
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Wrong - The siding on the chimney is rotten because there is no metal step flashing at the base of the chimney.
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Wrong - There is no step flashing along the base of the gable and the right window is missing sill trim.
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Wrong – The flashing of the roof-wall juncture was installed above the roof shingles instead of below the roof shingles; also no kickout flashing was installed.
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Wrong – the water-resistant barrier is layered underneath the step flashing, which could allow water to get behind the step flashing and into the wall.