Showing results 3301 - 3350 of 4973
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Sources of heat gain in a house include solar gains, infiltration, conduction through walls and roof, occupants, and internal equipment
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Sources of heat gain in a house include solar gains, infiltration, conduction through walls and roof, occupants, and internal equipment
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Southeast Volusia Habitat for Humanity built this affordable home in the hot-humid climate in Edgewater, FL, and certified it to DOE Zero Energy Ready Home specifications in 2014.
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Southern Energy Homes built this affordable home in the mixed-humid climate in Russellville, AL, and certified it to DOE Zero Energy Ready Home specifications in 2014.
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Southern Energy Homes constructed the first DOE Zero Energy Ready certified manufactured home and the DOE collected 15 months of performance data on it, a HUD code home, and an ENERGY STAR home.
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Southern Energy Homes worked with DOE researchers to develop an efficient way to dense-pack blown fiberglass into the low attics of manufactured homes.
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Special molded corners provide continuous insulation layer at the corners to improve structural strength and minimize thermal bridging
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Specially designed roof trusses come with a two-foot by two-foot notch cut next to the center post providing space to install an insulated duct chase inside the home’s conditioned space but above the normal ceiling height.
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Spray foam adhesive provides an extra water resistant layer to the joints and seams on the inside of attics.
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Spray foam and rigid foam were used under the slab while rigid foam wraps the exterior of the foundation walls.
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Spray foam extends down the foundation wall to the slab, which has been retrofitted by adding dimple plastic drainage mat and rigid foam insulation.
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Spray foam extends down the inside of the foundation wall to the uninsulated slab; because the wall lacked exterior perimeter drainage, the slab was cut and an interior footing drain was installed.
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Spray foam insulates and air-seals the ceiling deck and top plates of this vented attic.
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Spray foam insulates the rim joist and air seals the subfloor-rim joist and rim joist-top plate connections
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Spray foam insulates the top plates and air seals them to the ventilation baffles before ceiling drywall is installed.
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Spray foam insulation air-seals and insulates the floor above the garage; the joist will be filled with fibrous insulation in this flash-and-batt approach.
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Spray foam insulation extends down the foundation wall to the slab, which has been retrofitted by cutting the slab to install drainage mat against the wall and a new perimeter footing drain, along with rigid foam plastic above the slab.
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Spray foam insulation insulates and air seals around plumbing pipes and top plates in the attic.
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Spray foam insulation is applied along the underside of the roof deck to provide a conditioned and non-vented attic space for ducts and air handlers.
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Spray foam insulation is installed in open wall cavities to air seal and insulate
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Spray foam insulation used for raised ceiling duct chase
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Spray foam insulation used for raised ceiling duct chase.
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Spray foam insulation was installed on the underside of the roof deck and on gable end attic walls to create an unvented attic
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Spray foam is installed between new studs over the existing siding in this deep energy retrofit
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Spray foam provides a critical seal between the subfloor, rim joist, and sill plate
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Sprayer-applied sealant seals every seam in the sheathing and framing of this double-walled home.
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Staggering sheathing seams makes it harder for moisture to infiltrate the wall to the air gap, where furring strips will allow permeating moisture to drain if needed.
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Standard 2 in. by 4 in. stud secures duct chase - made of rigid insulation in this example
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Standard roof trusses are narrow at the eaves, preventing full insulation coverage over the top plate of the exterior walls
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Stem wall foundation design, including additional reinforcement to resist moving floodwaters and short (1.5-ft) breaking waves (Source: Adapted from FEMA P-550, Case F).
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 1. Remove the existing wall cladding to prepare to retrofit an exterior wall.
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Step 2. Install a continuous air and water control layer over the existing wall sheathing.
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 3. Apply urethane sealant around the duct or pipe in the retrofitted exterior wall.
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Step 3. Place the first shingle and the next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Step 4. Install insulating sheathing and vertical furring strips on the retrofitted exterior wall; seal around pipe or duct with urethane sealant.
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
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Step 5. Install sheathing tape flashing over the duct or pipe and wood blocking on either side for later attachment of trim.