Showing results 1 - 100 of 106
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A piece of siding is used as sill extension and to provide slope in the opening for the window, which is deeper because exterior rigid foam has been added
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Air seal around all duct shafts and flues installed through ceilings, walls, or flooring to keep conditioned air from leaking into unconditioned space.
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Air seal around kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans to keep conditioned air from leaking into unconditioned space.
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Air seal door and window rough openings with backer rod, caulk, or nonexpanding foam
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Air seal duct boot to ceiling by installing fiberglass mesh tape and mastic over seam
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Air-seal around all plumbing and piping installed through walls, ceilings, and flooring adjacent to unconditioned space to prevent air leakage.
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Air-seal around all wiring installed through walls, ceilings, and flooring to keep conditioned air from leaking into unconditioned space.
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Air-seal around recessed can light fixtures that are installed through ceilings to keep conditioned air from leaking into unconditioned space.
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Closed-cell backer rod is installed for air-sealing window and door rough openings.
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Duct boot is air sealed to ceiling by covering the seam with fiberglass mesh tape and mastic
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Fiberglass mesh tape is installed around a duct boot in preparation for air sealing with mastic
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Install an ENERGY STAR labeled insulated door with an automatic closer. Weather strip the door frame
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Install mesh insect barrier along the tops and bottoms of the rain screen behind the exterior cladding of above-grade walls.
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Install termite shields and use solid concrete or filled concrete block for the top of foundation walls to deter termites and other pests
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Light tubes adjacent to unconditioned space include lens separating unconditioned and conditioned space and are fully gasketed
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Plan view of duct or pipe penetration through exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Plan view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Reinforce concrete slab and foundation walls to minimize future cracks that could let in pests
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Right - The attic access panel is insulated and weather stripped and a dam is built to hold back the blown attic floor insulation
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Right - The duct shows redundant sealing including the caulk, tape, and flashing
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Right - The pipe penetration is properly flashed and furring strips are installed on each side in preparation for installing cladding
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Right - The water and air control layers are properly integrated around the hose bib
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Right - This ceiling-mounted mini whole-house fan has built-in insulated covers to reduce heat loss when the fan is not in use
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Right - This duct penetration is properly flashed and integrated with the taped, foil-faced foam sheathing layer, which serves as the air and water barrier
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Right - This opening in the foundation wall around this pipe was filled with wire mesh then sealed with spray foam to prevent rodent and insect entry
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Right – Attic access hatch has been properly insulated by attaching a fiberglass batt, gasketed, and opening has blocking
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Right – Attic access door has foam and rubber weatherstripping installed that remains in contact when closed.
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Right – Backer-rod is a foam product available in various diameters that can be used to air-seal openings around doors and windows.
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Right – Blocking has been installed around the perimeter of this attic access to prevent insulation falling into the house
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Right – Chase capped with rigid air barrier and duct work penetrations properly sealed
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Right – Fan with a cleanly cut and properly sized hole has been air sealed to drywall
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Right – The rough opening around the window has been filled with low-expansion foam to air seal.
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Right – The rough opening around window has been filled with backer-rod to air seal.
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Right – This ICAT recessed light is sprayed with foam to act as gasket against the drywall.
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Right – Weatherstripping has been installed and remains in contact when the door is closed.
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Right: Refrigerant piping is sealed where it exits the return plenum
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Seal all penetrations through the band joist
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Section view of duct or pipe penetration through exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Section view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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This kneewall has no top plate and the resulting gap provides a wide-open pathway for air and vapor to travel between the living space and the attic
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Whole house fans draw cool night-time air in through open windows and expel hot house air into the vented attic
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Wire hardware mesh is fastened with a staple gun and screws to the wall to prevent pests from entering the building through small holes and cracks
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Wrong - The opening in the foundation wall around this pipe has not been sealed allowing entry for rodents and bugs
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Wrong - This plumbing penetration through the foundation wall has not been sealed; the seam between the sill plate and the foundation wall is also unsealed
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Wrong – Fibrous insulation is not an air barrier and cannot be used for sealing holes.
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Wrong – Fibrous insulation is not an air barrier and cannot be used for sealing holes.
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Wrong – Fibrous insulation is not an air barrier and cannot be used to air-seal openings.
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Wrong – Holes have been cut larger than needed, making them difficult to air-seal.
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Wrong – No blocking installed to prevent attic insulation from falling into stairs and opening
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Wrong – Roughly cut hole that is larger than the fan, making it difficult to seal
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Wrong – Roughly cut hole that is larger than the fan, making it difficult to seal
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Wrong – There is visible light around the door because no weather stripping has been installed.
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Wrong – These holes have been cut larger than needed, making them difficult to seal.
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Wrong – These plumbing penetrations have been cut larger than needed, making them difficult to seal.
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Wrong – This cabin has a gap between the concrete slab and the wall where rodents can enter
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