Showing results 51 - 100 of 199
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Improper flashing can allow rain water into walls, causing significant damage
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Install all layers of the drainage plane to overlap, not underlap, to direct bulk water down and out of the wall.
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Install furring strips over house wrap to provide a rainscreen behind wood siding.
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Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter; attach to roof deck but not sidewall
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Installation of an erosion control blanket to minimize soil loss on sloped ground that has no established vegetation
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Place first shingle and next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Plan view of duct or pipe penetration through exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Plan view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Planting deep-rooted native grasses and shrubs on the banks of shorelines can help reduce the effects of erosion on sandy slopes
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Plywood or OSB panels are a cost-effective way to protect windows from wind-borne debris.
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Porous surfaces like pavers allow water to pass through and percolate slowly into the soil
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Proper gutter and downspout system terminates with final grade sloping away from the home
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Provide flashing and sealing integrated with the air and water control layers for vents and other roof penetrations
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Repair leaks and cracks, and cover holes in foundation floors and walls to minimize water and vapor entry.
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Retaining walls can prevent erosion and landslides and maintain access to critical infrastructure
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Retention walls, permeable pavement, french drains, drywells, and ditches all help to divert, collect, and manage the flow of stormwater on a site.
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Ridges can be constructed and planted to slow the downward flow of water and stabilize slopes.
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Right – The ties are bent at a 90 degree angle at the nail head and embedded into the mortar joint at least 1.5 inches.
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Right – The ties are bent at a 90 degree angle at the nail head and embedded into the mortar joint at least 1.5 inches.
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Right - Counterflashing tops a layer of step flashing which comes down above the asphalt shingle and a layer of L-shaped base flashing which comes down and extends below the shingle; the base flashing is adhered to the roof underlayment with mastic, shown
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Right - Step flashing along a chimney is integrated in a layered manner with asphalt shingle roofing and topped with counterflashing that is embedded into brick mortar joint above
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Right - The pipe penetration is properly flashed and furring strips are installed on each side in preparation for installing cladding
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Right - The water and air control layers are properly integrated around the hose bib
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Right - This duct penetration is properly flashed and integrated with the taped, foil-faced foam sheathing layer, which serves as the air and water barrier
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Right – A chimney cricket is installed and flashed to direct rainwater around the chimney
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Right – Furring strips provide a drainage and ventilation gap between the siding and the cork insulation.
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Right – Furring strips provide a drainage gap between the rigid foam and the siding.
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Right – House without gutters has waterproof liner, drain tile, and gravel bed extending more than 5 feet from foundation
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Right – If drip edge flashing is installed over fully adhered roof membrane at eaves, use flashing cement to seal the upper edge of the flashing
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Right – Install asphalt shingles over a starter strip set in an 8-inch strip of flashing cement
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Right – Rain barrel installed with an overflow spout terminating at least 5 feet from foundation