Showing results 101 - 150 of 192
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Right – There is flashing installed along the top of the window and the water-resistant barrier is layered over to create a complete drainage system
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Right – There is flashing installed at the bottom of the wall to create a satisfactory drainage system
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Right – This low-slope roof and parapet assembly has continuity of both the air and water barriers
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Right: All joints in the rigid foam are taped to keep stucco out of joints for even drying. Mesh tape (shown here) is used with expanded polystyrene (EPS); acrylic sheathing tape or self-adhered membrane is used with XPS
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Right: Brick veneer is flashed correctly with weep holes and a fine mesh screen is installed to prevent pest entry.
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Rigid foam insulation can serve as the drainage plane when all seams are taped. Furring strips provide an air gap behind the cladding.
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Rigid insulation and water control layers are installed on the exterior of a flat foundation wall; spray foam insulates the rim joist
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Seams in the ICF block are sealed so the EPS foam surface can serve as the drainage plane; no house wrap is needed.
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Section view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
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Spray foam extends down the inside of the foundation wall to the uninsulated slab; because the wall lacked exterior perimeter drainage, the slab was cut and an interior footing drain was installed.
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 3. Place the first shingle and the next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
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Step and kick-out flashing at all roof-wall intersections extending ≥ 4 in. on wall surface above roof deck and integrated with drainage plane above
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Tape horizontal joint with minimum 3" wide tape placing tape offset high on the joint, adhearing to the upper sheet without wrinkles
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Tape the joint between the top insulation sheet and the Z-flashing with 2" wide tape to improve air tightness
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Terminate 4" tape with 2" wide tape placing tape offset high on the joint, 2/3 of the tape should be adhered to the sheet of insulation
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The sheathing has rotted because there was not a sufficient drainage gap behind the stucco cladding
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The walls of this mixed-humid location home are constructed with moisture-resistant steel-framed expanded polystyrene R-34 wall panels that are designed to withstand winds up to 200 mph and level D seismic forces.
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The water-resistant barrier, weep screed, and stucco lathe are not properly layered
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The water-resistant barrier, weep screed, and stucco lathe are properly layered and will create a complete drainage system
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The weep holes are spaced at the correct distance to provide a complete drainage system
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This exterior wall retrofit permits drying to the exterior of a sill plate installed on an untreated flat foundation wall
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This farmhouse was retrofit by removing the existing siding and adding taped insulated sheathing and battens before installing new siding
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This flood-resistant exterior wall with brick or fiber-cement siding will limit moisture damage in exterior walls.
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This flood-resistant masonry wall design with metal framing and rigid foam insulation will limit moisture damage in exterior walls.
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This house design in the Hot-Humid climate uses a slab foundation, masonry walls, and an Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) cladding.
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Vapor-permeable mineral wool insulation is installed on the exterior side of the sill beam during an exterior wall retrofit to allow the sill beam to dry to the outside
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