Showing results 1 - 43 of 43
Image
A plastic fiber drainage mat rainscreen provides uniform support for the siding and allows moisture to flow horizontally and diagonally in addition to vertically.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Good water management practices like sloping grade away from house, and installing gutters, perimeter drain pipe, a capillary break, and free-draining soils or drainage mat protect the foundation from water saturation.
Image
House wrap is sealed at all seams and overlaps flashing to serve as a continuous drainage plane over the exterior walls.
Image
Image
Install all layers of the drainage plane to overlap, not underlap, to direct bulk water down and out of the wall.
Image
Install furring strips over house wrap to provide a rainscreen behind wood siding.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Right – The ties are bent at a 90 degree angle at the nail head and embedded into the mortar joint at least 1.5 inches.
Image
Right – Furring strips provide a drainage gap between the rigid foam and the siding.
Image
Right – The building felt is installed on all exterior walls and provides a complete drainage system
Image
Right – The rigid insulation covers all exterior walls and all seams are taped to provide a complete drainage system
Image
Right – The water-resistant barrier covers the entire house and the seams are taped to provide a complete drainage system
Image
Right – This low-slope roof and parapet assembly has continuity of both the air and water barriers
Image
Rigid foam insulation can serve as the drainage plane when all seams are taped. Furring strips provide an air gap behind the cladding.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
The sheathing has rotted because there was not a sufficient drainage gap behind the stucco cladding
Image
With fiber cement siding, face nail rather than blind nail where the design wind speed is ≥100 mph.
Image
With fiber cement siding, place blind nails 3/4 to 1 inch from top edge and > 3/8 inch in from butt ends.
Image
Image
Wood siding installation details to improve resistance to wind-driven rain at corners.
Image
Wrong - Utility trim was substituted for the starter strip and the bottom lock was cut off this vinyl siding so the siding pulled loose under wind pressure.
Image
Wrong – For proper detailing of vinyl around windows and other obstacles, use utility trim, punch snaplocks into siding, and do not overlap directly beneath a window.
Image
Wrong – Misalignment of the tie reduces the embedment and enables the brick veneer to be pulled away.
Image
Wrong – The rigid sheathing seams are not taped and the gaps could cause moisture problems
Image
Wrong – The underside of the first course of siding extends beyond the underlying sheathing leaving it vulnerable being pulled off by pressure from high winds.
Image
Wrong – The vinyl siding at this gable was installed over rigid foam instead of wood sheathing and neither had the structural strength to resist hurricane wind pressures.
Image
Image
Wrong – The water-resistant barrier is not complete and the holes and gaps could cause moisture problems
Image
Wrong – There is not a water-resistant barrier installed underneath the exterior finish of the walls
Image
Wrong – These four ties were never embedded into the mortar joint, allowing the brick wall to be pulled away from the sheathing.
Image
Wrong – This brick veneer failed in high winds (107 mph) because the ties pulled out of the substrate.
Image
Wrong – This metal tie remained embedded in the mortar joint but the smooth-shank nail pulled out from the stud.