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Right – thermal mass walls, small windows, and recessed porch and trees on the south side of this southwest home help to minimize solar heat gain.
Right – this commercial building employs good techniques to resist solar heat gain: awnings and pergolas over windows, recessed windows and entryways, deep tinting on glass, and shade plants.
Right – This fire-rated wall assembly uses exterior gypsum board and an exterior siding of fiber-cement or metal to increase fire resistance.
Right – This foil-faced foam sheathing has taped seams and proper flashing details so it can serve as a drainage plane.
Right – This home uses a light-colored exterior wall to reduce solar heat gain
Right – This home uses light tan stucco and white trim to reduce solar heat gain.
Right – This low-slope roof and parapet assembly has continuity of both the air and water barriers
Right – This metal roof is being coated with a cool (high SRI) coating to reduce solar heat gain
Right- Landscaping shades the entry on the south west corner of this hot dry climate building.
Right- This house uses CMU construction for flood and termite resistance as well as thermal mass
Rigid foam insulation can serve as the drainage plane when all seams are taped. Furring strips provide an air gap behind the cladding.
Section view of electric box installation in exterior wall showing flashing and air sealing details
Shear Strength Comparison Between a Foundation Stud Anchor (on left) and a Shear Transfer Angle (on right)
Sources of heat gain in a house include solar gains, infiltration, conduction through walls and roof, occupants, and internal equipment
Sources of heat gain in a house include solar gains, infiltration, conduction through walls and roof, occupants, and internal equipment
Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
Step 1. Remove the existing wall cladding to prepare to retrofit an exterior wall.
Step 2. Install a continuous air and water control layer over the existing wall sheathing.
Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
Step 3. Apply urethane sealant around the duct or pipe in the retrofitted exterior wall.
Step 4. Install insulating sheathing and vertical furring strips on the retrofitted exterior wall; seal around pipe or duct with urethane sealant.
Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
Step 5. Install sheathing tape flashing over the duct or pipe and wood blocking on either side for later attachment of trim.
Step 6. Install vent hood trim block, metal cap flashing; seal top edge of flashing with sheathing tape.
Step 8. Attach the new cladding to the furring strips over the rigid foam for the exterior wall retrofit.
Tape horizontal joint with minimum 3" wide tape placing tape offset high on the joint, adhearing to the upper sheet without wrinkles
Tape the joint between the top insulation sheet and the Z-flashing with 2" wide tape to improve air tightness
Terminate 4" tape with 2" wide tape placing tape offset high on the joint, 2/3 of the tape should be adhered to the sheet of insulation
The brick veneer lacked adequate ties to keep the brick from peeling off the wall in an earthquake.
The components of a framed wall include from inside to out: gypsum, wood studs, OSB or plywood sheathing, and siding.
The cripple wall hiding the post-and-pier foundation of this wood framed house toppled when the house was shifted partially off its piers by an earthquake
The cripple walls in this home gave way in the 1994 Northridge Earthquake, causing the walls to partially collapse.
The flush cut method for seismic retrofit bracing of a cripple wall allows the plywood sheathing to be attached directly to both the cripple studs and the notched section of the mudsill
The reverse block method for seismic retrofit bracing of a cripple wall uses a 2x4 attached to the sill plate to provide a means to attach the plywood cripple wall sheathing to the sill plate
The sheathing has rotted because there was not a sufficient drainage gap behind the stucco cladding
This basement is insulated on the exterior with rigid foam over dampproofing, with granular backfill and footing drains to facilitate drainage away from the foundation, a termite shield to protect from pests, and cellular PVC to protect the rigid foam.
This exterior insulated slab-on-grade monolithic grade beam foundation is protected from pests by termite shield at the sill plate, borate-treated framing, flashing at end of wall insulation, brick veneer over slab-edge insulation, and rock ground cover.
This farmhouse was retrofit by removing the existing siding and adding taped insulated sheathing and battens before installing new siding