Showing results 201 - 235 of 235
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Step 1. Apply roof underlayment over roof deck and up the sidewall over the rigid foam insulation
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Step 2. Install shingle starter strip then kick-out diverter as first piece of step flashing.
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Step 3. Place the first shingle and the next section of sidewall flashing over upper edge of diverter
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Step 4. Install remaining sidewall flashing, appropriate counter flashing, and shingles
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Step 5. Apply self-adhesive flashing over top edge of the wall flashing, diverter, and rigid foam insulation
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Step and kick-out flashing at all roof-wall intersections extending ≥ 4 in. on wall surface above roof deck and integrated with drainage plane above
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The OSB roof decking product comes with an adhered radiant foil barrier which helps to prevent heat transfer in or out of the vented attic, while R-13 unfaced fiberglass fills the advanced-framed 2x6 walls.
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This home has heat loss through the roof, leading to ice dam formation and structural issues during winter months.
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This home uses light-colored standard paints and finishes on siding and roofing materials to reduce cooling loads without adding material cost.
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This house design in the Hot-Humid climate uses a slab foundation, masonry walls, and an Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) cladding.
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This simplified decision tree can help a homeowner or contractor assess how appropriate a cool roof or wall will be for a particular home
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Unvented roof assembly at eave retrofitted with rigid foam, spray foam, and a fully adhered membrane seal at the top of wall-to-roof transition
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Unvented roof assembly at eave retrofitted with rigid foam, spray foam, and taped top edge of existing house wrap or building paper
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Unvented roof assembly at rake retrofitted with spray foam installed along the underside of the roof deck and extended to the rake edge to insulate and air seal the attic
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Using roof and wall materials with a high Solar Reflectance Index (SRI) will reduce heat gains.
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Vented roof assembly at eave retrofitted with rigid foam, spray foam, and fully adhered membrane to air seal the top of wall-to-roof transition
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Vented roof assembly at rake retrofitted with spray foam and additional insulation installed at the attic floor and extended to the rake edge
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Water management detail for a solar panel rack mounting block installed in rigid foam that was installed over an existing roof
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Wrong - An open eave with no soffit covering can trap rising hot air and embers from a wildfire.
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Wrong - House wrap was not properly cut and adhered where the roof meets the wall so water is likely to get behind the house wrap.
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Wrong - House wrap was poorly cut at wall interface and not taped leaving wood exposed and vulnerable to water entry.
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Wrong - If the soffit is applied directly to the rafter eave, it forms a sloping soffit, which creates a pocket that can trap hot air and embers from a wildfire.
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Wrong - Roof is missing metal drip edge to cover the edge of OSB roof decking, roof underlayment should be trimmed back, and asphalt shingles are poorly installed.
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Wrong - Roof-wall juncture lacks metal flashing and is poorly designed, thus encouraging water entry.
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Wrong - The studs added for support were cut at an angle providing weak support where the stud meets the compression block.
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Wrong – the water-resistant barrier is layered underneath the step flashing, which could allow water to get behind the step flashing and into the wall.
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Wrong – There is not a self-sealing bituminous membrane installed at the valley of the roof
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Wrong – This house under construction is lacking wall to truss bracing and the bottom chord of the scissor trusses is several feet above the top of the end wall top plate