Showing results 1 - 66 of 66
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Closed-cell foam is sprayed into roof cavities along the masonry parapet wall to form a continuous air barrier between the wall and the sheathing of the flat roof
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Closed-cell spray foam fills the roof joist cavities forming an air barrier between the masonry parapet wall and the roof sheathing
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Expanded polystyrene insulation is installed with joints taped and lath attached in preparation for the application of stucco
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Extruded polystyrene (XPS) rigid foam is taped at the seams to provides a continuous air and weather-resistant barrier so no house wrap is needed; it also provides a continuous layer of insulation.
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Flat roof with cavity spray foam plus loose-fill insulation and gypsum board thermal barrier.
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Holes in the exterior walls are flashed and flashing is integrated with housewrap before installing rigid mineral wool insulation.
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Install continuous rigid foam insulation or insulated siding to help reduce thermal bridging through wood- or metal-framed exterior walls.
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Insulating sheathing is installed on exterior of an existing framed wall with water control between existing sheathing and insulating sheathing
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Lay out the rigid foam sheathing joints so they do not align with the window and door edges
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Over the taped rigid foam board, 2x4 furring strips provide a ventilating air gap and drainage plane under the engineered wood lap siding. The furring strips were attached with structural screws to provide an attachment surface for the siding.
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Polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation is installed in multiple layers with staggered, taped seams over the flat roof
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Proper flashing around windows is especially important when the rigid foam serves as the drainage plane in the wall
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R-5 XPS rigid foam exterior sheathing provides an air seal, moisture barrier, and additional insulation value.
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Retrofit an existing roof by installing rigid foam, new moisture and air control layers, new sheathing, and new cladding plus cavity insulation in the roof rafters to create an unvented attic
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Right - Foil-faced polyisocyanurate insulating rigid foam sheathing is installed below the floor framing of this house built on piers; however, the seams should be sealed with metal taped and the plumbing elevated and protected.
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Right - Foil-faced polyisocyanurate rigid foam is attached to the existing exterior wall with vertical wood furring strips
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Right - Mold- and water-resistant fiber glass insulating sheathing is installed after panelized walls are assembled on site.
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Right - Raised-heel trusses increase the roof height above the eaves allowing more space for insulation above exterior wall top plates; exterior wall sheathing extends up to keep wind from soffit vents from disrupting insulation.
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Right - These roof insulation panels are installed in multiple layers with joints offset both vertically and horizontally. The plywood nail base fastened to the roof framing holds the insulation layers together snuggly thus minimizing gaps
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Right - This foil-faced polyisocyanurate rigid foam is installed on an existing exterior wall and the seams are taped so the rigid foam can serve as a water control layer
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Right – All insulated sheathing boards are installed according to the manufacturer’s recommended fastening schedule and taping specifications
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Right – Battens were installed above the cork insulation to provide a ventilating layer between the insulation and the roof sheathing on this “hot roof” design.
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Right – Furring strips provide a drainage and ventilation gap between the siding and the cork insulation.
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Right – Furring strips were installed to provide a 3/8-inch drainage plane over the rigid foam and under the fiber cement lap siding.
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Right – R-23 of blown fiberglass fills the walls and unvented vaulted attic cavities of this marine-climate home while an additional R-20 (4-inches) of graphite-enhanced expanded polystyrene is installed above the roof sheathing.
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Right – Ripped OSB provides furring strips for a ventilation gap behind the wood siding.
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Right – Structural insulated sheathing can provide racking strength (lateral load resistance), and serve as an air barrier and thermal barrier if installed according to manufacturer’s specifications with taped, sealed seams
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Right – This coated OSB sheathing product is available with an integrated insulation layer.
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Right – This foil-faced foam sheathing has taped seams and proper flashing details so it can serve as a drainage plane.
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Right: All joints in the rigid foam are taped to keep stucco out of joints for even drying. Mesh tape (shown here) is used with expanded polystyrene (EPS); acrylic sheathing tape or self-adhered membrane is used with XPS
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Rigid foam insulated sheathing placed exterior to house wrap, interior to house wrap, or take the place of the house wrap
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Rigid foam serves as the sheathing on these 2x6 24-inch on center walls; plywood is used only at the corners for wind bracing.
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Rigid mineral wool insulation is covered with ¼-inch wood battens which provides a air and drainage gap under the cedar and fiber cement siding.
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Sloped roof with cavity spray foam insulation sprayed on underside of roof deck and covered with sprayed-on thermal or ignition barrier coating.
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Sloped roof with cavity spray foam insulation, strapping, and gypsum board thermal barrier
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Step 4. Install insulating sheathing and vertical furring strips on the retrofitted exterior wall; seal around pipe or duct with urethane sealant.
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Step 5. Install sheathing tape flashing over the duct or pipe and wood blocking on either side for later attachment of trim.
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Step 6. Install vent hood trim block, metal cap flashing; seal top edge of flashing with sheathing tape.
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Step 8. Attach the new cladding to the furring strips over the rigid foam for the exterior wall retrofit.
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Stucco is installed over rigid insulation, which is installed over a drainage plane consisting of a drainage gap and building wrap layer over the sheathing
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The builder installed 1.5 inches of soy-based spray foam on the outside of the walls over the OSB sheathing, then kept a ¾ inch gap between the foam and the brick veneer siding to allow moisture vapor from the bricks to dissipate.
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The existing 2x8 roof rafters were topped with OSB; two layers of 2-inch rigid foam; plywood; ice and water shield at rakes, eaves, and valleys; underlayment; and fiberglass shingles, plus 6 inches of open-cell foam under the decking.
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The exterior of the home is wrapped in a continuous layer of rigid foam with all seams taped to provide a thermal, air, and moisture barrier and serve as a drainage plane, eliminating the need for house wrap.
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The exterior walls of this home consist of two wall cavities: a 2x6 wall with plywood sheathing plus 8-inch I-joists sheathed with engineered wood; both cavities are dense-packed with cellulose for R-60 total.
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The home is sheathed with rigid foam insulation and all seams and holes are taped to provide a continuous air barrier.
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The retrofitted flat roof has PV panels and walking mats installed over the roofing membrane
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The wood blocking for future PV panel installation extends above the surface of the top layer of polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation installed as part of a flat roof retrofit
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These factory-built walls consist of 9.5-inch I-studs sheathed with coated OSB, faced with OSB, and dense-packed with cellulose; a second interior surface of drywall is added to provide a 1.5-inch cavity for electrical wiring.
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To reduce the risk of condensation on the interior of the roof sheathing in cold weather, the ratio of exterior (above-deck) insulation must be increased as a percent of total attic insulation as outside temperature decreases
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Two layers of XPS are installed with staggered seams over a liquid-applied membrane on the structural sheathing
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Unvented roof assembly at eave retrofitted with rigid foam, spray foam, and taped top edge of existing house wrap or building paper
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Unvented roof assembly at rake retrofitted with a filler piece and taped top edge of existing house wrap or building paper to seal the top of wall-to-roof transition
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Use flashing tape to seal around any pipes or vents that penetrate through the foam
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When condensation forms on the interior side of wall sheathing and is not able to dry out, it can lead to mold growth and rotting of wall sheathing and framing
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Wrong – A visible gap in the insulated sheathing introduces unwanted outside air, creating a thermal bypass and encouraging convective air flow
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Wrong – Either this tape was not pressed down firmly or the surface was wet or dirty so the tape is not sticking properly even during construction.
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Wrong – If the insulated sheathing will serve as an air barrier and drainage plane, any cuts and seams must be taped or sealed.
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Wrong – When insulated sheathing is installed correctly, you should not see daylight. Nail holes were also left unplugged.