Showing results 1 - 100 of 101
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Example of the advanced framing technique, double-stud wall cavity, which will later be filled with blown insulation
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Advanced framing details include corners that are constructed with fewer studs or studs aligned so that insulation can be installed in the corner.
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Advanced framing details include framing aligned to allow for insulation at interior-exterior wall intersections.
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Advanced framing details include open headers and reduced framing around windows and two-stud corners to allow more room for insulation in the wall cavities while reducing lumber costs.
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Advanced framing techniques including 2x6 walls spaced at 24 inches on center and ladder blocking at wall intersections allow more space for insulation in the wall cavities while open-web floor joists provide space between floors for ducting.
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After spraying the 2x6 wall cavities with 2 inches (R-13) of closed-cell spray foam, the walls are covered with netting and an additional 3.5 inches of fiberglass (R-13) is blown in.
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Attach the interior 2x4 wall to the exterior wall top plate with a flat metal connector plate
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Baffles will keep insulation out of the soffit vents and wind out of the insulation in this vented attic.
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Brick veneer framed wall supported by a concrete slab-on-grade foundation with a turn-down footing insulated on its top surface, showing anchorage of the wall to the foundation for seismic resistance
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Closed-cell spray foam insulation is added to the wall cavities of an existing exterior wall
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Construct a double wall consisting of two framed walls forming a wide wall cavity for more insulation in the home’s exterior walls.
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Conventional three-stud corners leave a cavity that must be insulated by the framers—not good
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Drywall was removed and the existing 2x4 walls were filled with 3.5 inches of dense-packed cellulose. Outside, the ½-inch plywood was topped with house wrap, 1.5 inches closed-cell rigid foam, 1x3 furring strips, and fiber cement siding.
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Framing is built around the window before exterior rigid foam is installed on the exterior walls around the window.
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ICF bricks are stacked to form hollow walls that are reinforced with steel rebar before the concrete is poured in
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Installing ladder blocking at interior-exterior wall intersections rather than three solid studs in the exterior wall as the supporting surface allows room for insulation in the exterior wall.
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Instead of solid timber headers over windows, insulated headers can be used consisting of prefabricated structural insulated panels or site-fabricated with two sheets of plywood sandwiching a layer of rigid foam.
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Instead of solid timber headers over windows, the headers can be insulated by using a sheet of plywood or one piece of solid timer on the exterior with a layer of insulation to the inside.
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Insulated header made of one piece of plywood aligned with exterior wall, with room for insulation to inside
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Insulated header made of two pieces of plywood that sandwich a layer of rigid foam insulation
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Insulated headers can be hung with metal hangers instead of jack studs to reduce lumber usage
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Insulating sheathing is extended up to the roof rafters and sealed around the framing with spray foam as part of this exterior wall retrofit
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Interior wall attached with top plate metal connector, drywall clips support drywall, plan view
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Interior wall attached with top plate metal connector, drywall clips support drywall, side view
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Ladder blocking where exterior walls intersect interior walls provides more space for insulation and reduces thermal bridging.
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Ladder blocking where interior and exterior walls intersect uses less wood and provides more room for insulation than stacking studs in the exterior wall to nail the interior wall to.
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Ledger board, metal brackets, and vertical 2x4s have been installed in preparation for exterior spray foam in this retrofit exterior wall insulation technique
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On top of the ice-and-water shield, the builder installed horizontal beams that were raised 6 inches off the deck to allow room for spray foam insulation.
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Raised ceiling duct chase installation technique
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Right - Closed-cell spray foam insulation fills the wall cavities of the exterior walls in this home retrofit
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Right - New flashing has been installed to complete the air and water control layers at the window openings of this wall retrofit that includes insulating the wall cavities with spray foam
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Right - Raised-heel roof trusses allow more room at the eaves for attic insulation.
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Right - Spray foam fills the walls and rim joists to air seal and insulate while caulk seals the framing joints.
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Right – Full length 2x6 nailer has been installed to allow space for insulation at wall intersection
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Right – Ladder blocking allows the exterior wall to be insulated where intersected by an interior wall.
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Right – This home is framed with double walls – two 2x4 walls set next to each other then sheathed with OSB on the exterior and netted on the interior face to create an extra-deep wall cavity that can be filled with blown-in insulation.
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Right – This hot-humid climate home is constructed with concrete block that is insulated on the inside with rigid foam; the framing is borate-treated lumber; the roof design is a high-wind-resistant hip roof with only one small gable over the entry.
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Right – This three studs in this corner are positioned to allow insulation against more of the exterior wall than standard three-stud corners.
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Right- This concrete block home in the hot-humid climate is insulated on the interior with rigid EPS foam; all framing uses mold- and termite-resistant borate-treated lumber.
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Single framed wall converted to double wall and insulated with closed-cell spray foam
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Specially designed roof trusses come with a two-foot by two-foot notch cut next to the center post providing space to install an insulated duct chase inside the home’s conditioned space but above the normal ceiling height.
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Stucco is installed over rigid insulation, which is installed over a drainage plane consisting of a drainage gap and building wrap layer over the sheathing
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The advance-framed 2x6 24-inch on-center walls are covered with netting then filled with R-23 blown fiberglass.
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The attic is sealed and insulated along the underside of the roof deck with 5.5 inches of polyurethane spray foam, providing conditioned space for the HVAC system.
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The basement walls’ interior framing is set in 3 inches from the concrete to allow space for closed-cell foam that is sprayed directly on the concrete, then blown cellulose is added to fill the wall cavity.
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The double walls form a 12-inch cavity that was sheathed with a coated OSB then coated with 3 inches of closed-cell spray foam; they will be filled with 9 inches of blown fiberglass.
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The energy-saving double wall construction uses two side-by-side stud walls, providing an extra-thick wall cavity that can be filled with more than twice as much insulation as a 2x6 wall.
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The exterior walls of this home consist of two wall cavities: a 2x6 wall with plywood sheathing plus 8-inch I-joists sheathed with engineered wood; both cavities are dense-packed with cellulose for R-60 total.
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The improved three-stud corner allows insulation to be installed later, in sequence
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The main trunk line of the ducts runs within an insulated duct chase installed in a notch designed into the roof trusses that runs the length of the home to provide supply air directly to most of the home’s ceiling registers.
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The missing top plate in a kneewall was covered with lumber and rigid foam insulation and then sealed with spray foam
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The OSB roof decking product comes with an adhered radiant foil barrier which helps to prevent heat transfer in or out of the vented attic, while R-13 unfaced fiberglass fills the advanced-framed 2x6 walls.
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The rim joists and top plates are air sealed and insulated with open-cell spray foam while the walls are filled with blown fiberglass.
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These factory-built walls consist of 9.5-inch I-studs sheathed with coated OSB, faced with OSB, and dense-packed with cellulose; a second interior surface of drywall is added to provide a 1.5-inch cavity for electrical wiring.
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This 2x6 wall is advanced framed and filled with dense-packed cellulose insulation.
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This Habitat for Humanity builder ordered roof trusses with a 2-foot by 2-foot notch next to the center post then lined the cutout with rigid foam to form an insulated central duct chase to bring the heating and cooling ducts within the conditioned space.
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This home’s double-wall structure consists of two 2x4 walls set two inches apart, then sheathed on the exterior and netted on the interior to create a 9.5-inch wall cavity that is filled with blown fiberglass insulation.
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This hot climate zone home uses high quality batt insulation between studs to insulate this connecting garage wall.
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This hot climate zone home uses high quality batt insulation to insulate truss-joist headers.
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This Kalamazoo Habitat for Humanity affiliate installs one layer of foam exterior of the studs and a second layer in between the staggered studs which are set only 2 inches apart to simplify the installation of additional fiberglass batt insulation.
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This kneewall has no top plate and the resulting gap provides a wide-open pathway for air and vapor to travel between the living space and the attic
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Two-stud corner using drywall clips; detail shows nail placement for exterior trim
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Two-stud corners with drywall clips use the least wood and give the best thermal performance
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When condensation forms on the interior side of wall sheathing and is not able to dry out, it can lead to mold growth and rotting of wall sheathing and framing
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Windows are installed in new framing in preparation for adding exterior spray foam insulation
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Wrong - Insulation beneath window is compressed and there are more support studs than necessary to left of window.
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Wrong – Conventional T-post detail is extremely difficult to insulate and usually doesn't happen
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