Introduction
Air sealing your bathroom exhaust fan can prevent attic air from leaking into the home and heated air from leaking into the attic, improving comfort and reducing energy bills.
Why
Bathroom exhaust fans are critical for removing moisture from the home. Gaps around fan housings allows conditioned air and moisture to escape into building cavities and attics (Figure 1), increasing energy bills and potentially leading to mold issues over time. Air-sealing any gaps around the fan minimizes air and moisture leakage and improves the thermal efficiency of the house.
What You'll Need
- Step stool or ladder to reach the bath fan
- Eye protection (optional)
- Headlamp or flashlight (optional)
- Caulk or spray foam
- Utility knife
- UL 181b metal tape
- Putty knife
- Screwdriver
1. Get a step stool.
Get a ladder or step stool if needed to reach the bath fan (Figure 2). Place the step stool or ladder on an even surface on the floor.
2. Turn off the power.
Turn off the exhaust fan at the switch. If your fan comes on automatically, turn off the fan at the breaker box.
3. Remove the trim and fan cover.
- Open or remove the fan cover. You may want to wear eye protection to keep falling debris out of your eyes. Some bath fan vent covers are loosened by simply pulling the cover downward (Figures 3 and 4). If needed, reach up and squeeze together the metal mounting wires attached to the back side of the cover (Figure 5) while pulling down on the cover to slide the wires out of their slots and remove the cover from the housing. Some models use screws, levers, buttons, knobs, or nuts; disconnect these as necessary to remove the vent cover.
- If the fan is dirty, this would be a good time to clean it as well. See the Building America Solution Center DIY guide Clean Bath Fan .
4. Remove Light to Access the Fan.
If the exhaust fan has a light, the light housing must be removed to access the fan itself.
1. Unscrew or unclip the light fixture housing to remove it (Figures 6 and 7).
- Move or remove the light fixture housing. It is not necessary to disconnect the light fixture, but it may provide better access for air-sealing. In some models, the electric wire from the light to the fan housing is plugged in and can simply be unplugged (Figures 8 and 9). If the light is hardwired, the fixture can be moved out of the way and held by masking tape.
5. Look for gaps around the fan housing.
If the fan housing has not been air-sealed to the drywall (Figures 10, 11, and 12), you’ll need to fill the gaps around the fan between the fan box and the drywall. Gaps that are small can be caulked or spray foamed (Figure 13). For gaps that are larger than a half inch, use canned spray foam (Figure 14). Other options for sealing large gaps are metal tape, fiberglass mesh tape and mastic, or foam backer rod and caulk. You may be able to narrow the gap by installing one or two wood screws through the metal housing and into the framing behind the drywall to narrow the gap, then sealing it with caulk. Do not stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap as this does not air seal.
6. Seal holes in the fan housing with caulk, sealing putty, or metal tape.
If you feel comfortable doing so, you can remove the fan from its housing and seal the holes and seams in the fan housing with caulk or metal tape (Figure 15). Just don’t fill any screw holes you’ll need to reattach the fan!
7. Trim foam.
After the canned spray foam has completely dried and hardened, trim it flush with the ceiling surface with a utility knife so that the trim and fan cover will fit back in place (Figure 16). Don’t attempt to cut or move the foam while it is still wet – it is very sticky and difficult to remove from tools, clothes, and fingers!
8. Replace the vent cover and turn on the fan.
- Replace the cover and reinstall the light fixture if there is one (Figure 17); plug in the fan and light and refasten fasteners.
- Re-attach trim if it was removed.
- Turn on the electricity to the circuit at the breaker box.
- Switch on the fan at the wall switch (Figure 18).