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Image Gallery

A coated OSB product with taped seams covers the walls to serve as both sheathing and weather-resistant barrier.
A mesh plastic rainscreen product separates the coated OSB from the siding, providing a drainage space and ventilation gap.
A putty knife is used to press caulk into a seam in the plywood sheathing.
Coated sheathing is used to box the windows in this double wall.
Expanded polystyrene insulation is installed with joints taped and lath attached in preparation for the application of stucco. Windows are flashed to the drainage plane (not seen), which is behind the insulation.
Extruded polystyrene (XPS) rigid foam is taped at the seams to provides a continuous air and weather-resistant barrier so no house wrap is needed; it also provides a continuous layer of insulation.
Flashing is installed above the foundation wall before installing the siding. Seams in sheathing are sealed with tape and caulk, while nail holes are sealed with caulk.
Furring strips are installed over a foil-faced rigid foam sheathing to provide a drainage plane and ventilation gap behind siding.
Furring strips provide a ventilation gap between the coated OSB sheathing and the fiber cement siding.
Install continuous rigid foam insulation or insulated siding to help reduce thermal bridging through wood- or metal-framed exterior walls.
Insulated sheathing has been taped and sealed at seams
Lay out the rigid foam sheathing joints so they do not align with the window and door edges
No insulated sheathing seams are visible from the inside during framing
Open-web floor and ceiling trusses provide space for ducts in conditioned space.
Over the taped rigid foam board, 2x4 furring strips provide a ventilating air gap and drainage plane under the engineered wood lap siding. The furring strips were attached with structural screws to provide an attachment surface for the siding.
Proper flashing around windows is especially important when the rigid foam serves as the drainage plane in the wall
Raised-heel trusses increase the roof height above the eaves allowing more space for insulation above exterior wall top plates; exterior wall sheathing extends up to keep wind from soffit vents from disrupting insulation.
Right – All insulated sheathing boards are installed according to the manufacturer’s recommended fastening schedule and taping specifications
Right – Continuous rigid insulation has been installed
Right – Rigid insulation is being installed with cap nails
Right – Structural insulated sheathing can provide racking strength (lateral load resistance), and serve as an air barrier and thermal barrier if installed according to manufacturer’s specifications with taped, sealed seams
Right – This foil-faced foam sheathing has taped seams and proper flashing details so it can serve as a drainage plane.
Rigid foam insulated sheathing placed exterior to house wrap, interior to house wrap, or take the place of the house wrap
Rigid foam serves as the sheathing on these 2x6 24-inch on center walls; plywood is used only at the corners for wind bracing.
Rigid mineral wool insulation is covered with ¼-inch wood battens which provides a air and drainage gap under the cedar and fiber cement siding.
The builder installed 1.5 inches of soy-based spray foam on the outside of the walls over the OSB sheathing, then kept a ¾ inch gap between the foam and the brick veneer siding to allow moisture vapor from the bricks to dissipate.
The builder installed a rain screen product that provides an air gap and drainage plane between the coated OSB sheathing and the cladding; the fabric layer folded over the bottom edge forms an insect screen.
The metal screening keeps insects out of the black mesh plastic fabric which provides a ventilation gap behind the home’s siding, which includes the ship-lapped cypress shown here.
The OSB sheathing is coated and taped at the seams to provide a weather-resistant barrier that can take the place of house wrap.
The roof is constructed with a foil-faced radiant barrier sheathing.
The walls of this mixed-humid location home are constructed with moisture-resistant steel-framed expanded polystyrene R-34 wall panels that are designed to withstand winds up to 200 mph and level D seismic forces.
This home is covered with coated sheathing. Wall portions that will be covered with stone have a dimple plastic moisture barrier and metal lathe that is being covered with plaster.
This plastic mesh material creates an air space behind the siding and provides a route for water to run out of the wall in case of leaks.
Two layers of XPS are installed with staggered seams over a liquid-applied membrane on the structural sheathing
Two types of paint-on flashing (green and red) are installed on the walls and around the windows, over the coated sheathing which is taped at the seams.
Use flashing tape to seal around any pipes or vents that penetrate through the foam
With a quality installation, tape can last a long time
Wrong – A visible gap in the insulated sheathing introduces unwanted outside air, creating a thermal bypass and encouraging convective air flow
Wrong – Either this tape was not pressed down firmly or the surface was wet or dirty so the tape is not sticking properly even during construction.
Wrong – If the insulated sheathing will serve as an air barrier and drainage plane, any cuts and seams must be taped or sealed.
Wrong – Insulated sheathing seams should align with framing members
Wrong – Rigid insulation is being installed without cap nails
Wrong – When insulated sheathing is installed correctly, you should not see daylight. Nail holes were also left unplugged
Z flashing is installed behind the rigid foam and metal lathe that goes behind the stucco siding to protect the transition between the wall sheathing and the exterior foundation insulation.